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Fashion in recession: Part 1 - The current situation Image Print Image
Written by Abigail Keats   
Thursday, 04 December 2008
With times of financial difficulty upon us and the looming possibility of recession, fashion professionals world-wide are wondering what effects a recession will have on designer collections and consumer spending.  Although many of the answers are still masked, slowly but surely, much like the economic downturn of the 80’s and 90’s, we see the return of adapting designers and fashion to accommodate consumers in an unbalanced economic environment.

If there’s one thing history has taught us about fashion, it is the fact that there is an extremely close link between trends and the economy. In my opinion, to a large extent, the latest fashion is a painted canvas of the economic environment and consumer behaviors, attitudes and emotions. After several seasons of over-abundance, eccentricity and the triumph of artificial over the natural, due to times of financial security and luxury indulgence, we now see a strong desire to return to a state of equilibrium, reflecting the current world economic climate.

In fashion, we see a gradual movement toward trends that speak of minimal detail and strong functionality while still providing fashionable, quality assured looks at reasonable prices. These trends also adapt an increase in bright colors to sweeten our moods in dire times and place a focus on "recession chic" which is in essence the innovation and revamping of older clothes to look like something new. "In this kind of economy, obviously there's the temptation to shop in your own closet." -Wendy Liebmann

Similarly, in local and international buying trends, the average consumer is more focused on purchasing fashion basics that carry a strong sense of value for money while still catering for their needs without breaking the bank. With this change in motion and adjusted consumer demands, there is now a growing reluctance to purchase high-end fashion goods. The autumn 1930 Sears catalogue declared that, "thrift is the spirit of the day. Reckless spending is a thing of the past”. I believe, without a doubt, this quote will ring true once again in the near future.

With fashion heading in this direction, designers who have positioned themselves in the high fashion bracket, have to now seriously consider creating a plan of action that will ensure their long-term survival in our current economic environment. The solution is 'survival through adaption'. This will be discussed in my next article entitled 'Fashion in recession: Part 2 – Survival through adaption'.

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written by Renato Palmi, December 04, 2008
Old news about designers who focus on high end of the value chain. Said this last year in my book, told government and industry over and over about this. However I still hear from govt that SA fashion indsutry can compete and MUST focus on high-end or design intesive apparel. Furthermore, our great SA fashion promoters -SAFW and AFI keep on pushing this rubbish in their PR spins. Why because it's all about "glamour" -that is how they see the industry. Over the past few months I am hearing more and more designers and so called experts say we can compete with China and the likes because we are so good at design ... and they can only copy.
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written by Abigail Keats, December 05, 2008
Dear Renato

Thank you for your input. I look forward to reading your book which I am sure is well researched. I am however having difficulty understanding the point you are trying to make with regards to the content of this article, which simply spreads light on the current situation that we are facing as a result of world financial difficulties. It looks at survival through adaption as a solution, which in essence, as you will read in part 2 of this article, is to encourage idealists not to surrender their values and creativeness in the face of both the Economic and Chinese threats, but to seek an innovative adaptive approach. On the other hand I recognize many designers will follow a more commercial approach in seeking survival and business success. These designers will look to compete for a share in the larger market place by adapting to commercial reality. By no means am I saying its time to compete with China. Chinese traders based in South Africa are selling huge quantities of garments to our industry and other parts of Africa. With this in mind I believe it would be a futile exercise to compete on their terms. Another important point to remember is that other countries, particularly in Europe, are competing and are leaders at the high end of the fashion chain. I do not see why SA designers should also not be successful in this regard and why they should not be encouraged to continue with their work. With regards to AFI, I disagree that they are purely promoting ‘glamour’ within industry! Their purpose is to encourage growth of individual designers and our industry by providing platforms that allow designers the chance to exhibit and learn through experience, the in and outs of our industry. I have been involved with them for the past year and have, through regular interaction and the opportunity of showcasing at their events, learnt industry realities, enhanced my brand and had doors opened for the supply of my creations to the market. Personally I think they are doing a fantastic job and I commend them on their values and initiatives. I leave you with one last thought; nothing spends faster than a positive attitude!

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